By Hugh Edward Millington Stutfield
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Extra info for El Maghreg: 1200 Miles' Ride Through Morocco
Through Marocco. 5i Soko we were surrounded by crowds of gaping natives, who hardly seemed to know what to make of us. One little nigger boy, who had never seen a Christian before, ran off with shrieks to tell his mother. Wazan is seldom visited by Europeans,' as, being a holy city, it is considered by many to be inaccessible, and it is out of the main road to Fez. The tribes round about are also turbulent and fanatioal, and travelling is unsafe there at some seasons. The streeta of the town are narrow, and tremendously steep, and it was no light work 'riding up over the slippery stones till we stopped in a small, open space close to thé gréât'mosque of the city, the Djemma Moulai Abdallah Shereef built by the founder of Wazan, whose remains rest within.
From the gunsmiths' shops we walked down to the ancient palace of Tetuan, once the résidence of the Court, but now for the most part in an uninhabitable condition. There was a fine Moorish court in the centre, with some fine wood-carving, and a stalactite roof in places the walls were in the well-known Arabesque stucco-work of delicate patterns, but danbed over and disfigured with whitewash, as were thé walls of the Alhambra before the work of It is probable that this restoration was begun. white-washing was done at an epoch when a wave of Puritanism passed over Islam, similar to that which wrought such havoc among our church architecture in England.
Rohlf's estimate of 30,000 inhabitants is a long way over the mark. The houses frequently have sloping roofs of thatoh, whioh diversify its appearance, but render it less The town is governed by a kaid Eastem-looking. who is subordinate to the Bascha of Larache, and a very considerable trade passes through it on the road to Fez. Nobody knows the date of the founding of the town, though Leo Africanus asserts that it was built by the great Sultan Almansor in the twelfth As, however, writers of a still earlier century.
El Maghreg: 1200 Miles' Ride Through Morocco by Hugh Edward Millington Stutfield